Marni обвинили в расизме из-за рекламного кампейна Jungle Mood

Бренд уже принес извинения.

Кампейн весенне-летней коллекции итальянского бренда Marni оказался в центре скандала. Главными героями съемки под названием Jungle Mood стали темнокожие модели, что в контексте темы коллекции вызвало большой резонанс. В рекламе акцент был сделан на плетеные сумки, этнические украшения и карибские шляпы. Однако  пользователи сети увидели в этом попытку изобразить темнокожих людей дикарями.

Первым обратили на это внимание авторы Инстаграм-аккаунта Diet Prada. Они посчитали, что маркетологи бренда допустили колоссальную ошибку и не осознавали целостности всей картины. Учитывая, что кампейн был снят темнокожим фотографом, намеренная попытка оскорбить представителей конкретной расы исключена. Marni сразу же отреагировали на критику и принесли свои извинения.

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On Friday, Italian brand @Marni , known for its quirky, irreverent take on luxury fashion, sent out an e-mail blast for their new SS20 campaign. In the series of images, which were also simultaneously posted on Instagram, Black models are juxtaposed with some choice words evoking the season’s mood–“jungle mood,” “tribal amulet,” and “barefoot in the jungle” among others. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ You might remember H&M’s “Coolest Monkey In The Jungle” hoodie from 2018, which was photographed on a young black boy, and recalled a legacy of simianized representations of Black people as apes and monkeys. Ditto Prada’s “Otto” keychains which caused a scandal later that same year and in the months prior, an incident with Gucci’s blackface balaclava. It was a rough year for fashion brands, but it hasn’t stopped. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Marni’s new campaign is more nuanced, but no less problematic. With the models styled in a smorgasbord of ethnic accessories like Bayong wood necklaces from the Philippines, Caribbean woven grass hats, and other non-descript wooden jewelry (none of which are Marni), the images begin alluding to racist, colonial stereotypes of Black people as primitive, uncivilized, and unmodern people. One model is even painted in clay, evoking tribal bodypaint. In another image that’s since been deleted from the brand’s Instagram account, a link of chains near the model’s feet resulted in some terrible shackle-like optics. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ It becomes a more layered conversation though, when you discover the photographer Edgar Azevedo is Afro-Brazilian. Meanwhile Giovanni Bianco, the art director, is Brazilian-Italian. Was something lost in translation? More context provided by the brand to explain the vision and collaboration with the photographer could have helped in this situation, but needless to say, the damage was done when the marketing team decided on those words. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ These stereotypes are just some of the ways the institution of white supremacy has oppressed, dehumanized, and deprived Black people of their human rights. For yet another fashion brand to reflect these tropes further proves the work that needs to be done to dismantle the pervasive racism throughout the world.

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A post shared by Diet Prada ™ (@diet_prada) on Jul 28, 2020 at 9:07am PDT